A city of contrasts and rapid regeneration, you will be pleasantly surprised by Bilbao. Little more than an industrial wasteland not so long ago, the city has emerged from the ashes with the construction of the Guggenheim and hasn't looked back since the fabulous museum became a major reason to visit this corner of Spain.

Although the gleaming silver hulk of Frank Gehry's creation is the star attraction of Bilbao, it's in no way the only one. The entire area around the Guggenheim - what was the city's shipyards - has undergone massive changes and is still being developed as a centre for art and culture. Most notable among these developments is the Euskalduna Conference Centre, another striking example of outlandish modern architecture.

Elsewhere, the old parts of the city hold their own, more conventional, charms. In the Casco Viejo, medieval streets wend their way around the pretty Plaza Nueva, the city's main square, where people congregate day and night to sample pintxos (Basque tapas) and watch the world go by. A short stroll away, the daily Ribera market bustles with activity as locals throng the stalls decked with exotic cuts of meat and seafood and fantastic displays of lush fruit and vegetables. It's in this contrast between old and new that Bilbao excels itself - and it is because the city is still in some respects a work in progress that it is such an invigorating place to visit.

The other aspect that makes Bilbao unique - and one that can't be ignored - is its position at the heart of the Basque country, which is indisputably distinct from the rest of Spain culturally - and would be politically, if the Basque separatist movement had their way. The resurgence of Basque language teaching over the past few decades (Franco had no truck with individual freedom) has reinforced the strong feelings of cultural identity that the Basques hold dear. This unique set of traditions, along with some magnificent beaches on the rugged coast of the Bay of Biscay and beautiful surrounding countryside, makes Bilbao and the Basque country one of the most fascinating regions of Spain.