The sunshine island of Ibiza is used to invasions. The Romans stopped off here en-route to Spain, as did the Moors and countless others on their way across the Mediterranean to the riches of mainland Europe. However, these great Empire builders failed to change the landscape quite as much as the latest wave of foreigners to discover the island - the sunseeking, hedonistic holidaymaker.

Ibiza was first "discovered" by mainland Europe's holiday set in the 1960s, when it became a minor but popular stop on the southern Europe hippy route. With the advent of ever-cheaper global flights of course this particular flock of trailblazing individuals, soon moved on en masse to "be different" all in the same place in East Asia, but the same phenomenon provided Ibiza with its next influx of travellers - the family holidaymaker, who could now afford to jet off to the sun from the colder climates of Northern Europe, such as Germany, Scandinavia and, of course, the UK.

Ibiza revelled in its new role like few places have done elsewhere. Resort development was swift, concentrating around the island's perfect beaches, and although the island has been extensively built on in parts, in most places it has managed to retain a more considered balance between resort and natural attraction that escapes the tackiness of certain towns on the mainland Costa that have a similar seasonal inundation of sunseekers.

You can still find plenty of the island's natural attractions, head inland to discover the distinctive Balearic, sparsely vegetated landscape, with whitewashed houses gleaming. The island's capital Ibiza Town (Eivissa in Catalan) meanwhile contains some incredibly well-preserved relics of Punic times (relics of the great Carthaginian Empire that once settled here) as well as Roman and Moorish influenced architecture within its old city walls. And here and there you can still find spots of the sixties hippy culture in the "Hippy markets" that crop up regularly in many of the towns.

This side of Ibiza it has to be said is considered purely incidental to the majority of visitors. For most summer tourists Ibiza means one thing - partytime. The island boasts the world's most famous and largest nightclubs, as well as countless bars, all of which are packed to the rafters every night in summer with an enthusiastic mixture of music fans from all over Europe. The world's best dance music DJs flock here to show their credentials in the world's longest and most notorious party. The atmosphere is hedonistic to say the least - San Antonio's "strip" has become synonymous in many people's minds with teenage drunkeness and lewd behaviour. However, Ibiza has made great efforts to control this side of the island. Noise curfews and a clampdown on anti-social behaviour has retained the fun aspect, while dispensing with much of the offensiveness. And in any case, most people who choose to venture down the strip or to a club should know what to expect in advance, so don't complain if you see too much.

Everyone, though, whether party seeker, bohemian wanderer, or family holiday maker comes for the beaches and the sun, both of which are permanently glorious. It is still possible to find a secluded cove, where you can swim in azure waters. This is Ibiza's real attraction, too often forgotten by people swift to dismiss the "party isle". Visit in winter, when the revellers have gone home, and you'll find a sleepy island, but even so the beaches never lose their lustre.